domingo, 2 de agosto de 2009

The other side of the pond

OK, so this is a blog about Argentina. But I feel it wouldn't be complete without the mention of a wonderful sidetrip you can make to neighbouring Uruguay. It can be a day trip, or something a bit longer, and it's really worth it. Just hop into a ferry and let's explore "the other side of the pond"!
Uruguayan immigration regulations are similar as those in Argentina, so if you don't need a visa for one country, you won't need it for the other as well.
The best way to go to Uruguay is by Buquebus ferry. Sure, there is planes, but the ferry in itself is part of the experience! There's two destinations reached by Buquebus: Colonia and Montevideo (and sometimes, in summer, they add on another ship to Piriapolis which is near trendy summer spot Punta del Este). From Colonia there's buses to Montevideo, as well as from Montevideo to Punta del Este, which you can book directly from Buquebus ( a combo ticket).
If you plan a daytrip the best is to visit Colonia only. It's a charming town with a well preserved historic center complete with cobblestone streets and old portuguese houses. You can visit one of those houses (Museo Portugues), the lighthouse (you can even climb up!) and the old church and fort walls. Then just give yourself permission to loose yourself in the myriad of small streets and stop every now and then at a little bar (confiteria) for a coffe or refreshment. Buquebus offers a day program that includes the round trip, lunch at a nice restaurant and a guided visit to the historical center (which lasts about 1 hour), then some free time before reboarding the ferry. It's a fun excursion.
If you decide to visit Montevideo, it's best to leave yourself at least a full day to do so. Montevideo again has a well conserved historic center, the "ciudad vieja". It also serves as the banking district, so it's safe to wander during the day, but excercise caution in the evening as there has been a raise in criminality.
Some Montevideo attractions:
  • The port itself: there are some wonderful parrillas to have lunch just in front of the exit of the port. OK, so they are a lot of tourists there, but it doesn't really matter since there will be locals too. Plus, there are some crafts stands that are really nice.
  • The "Plaza Matriz", a park in the middle of the historical center, that has a beautiful marble fountain. Sometimes you can find craft stands here too.
  • Directly on the Plaza Matriz you'll find a beautiful church, the Iglesia Matriz, first one in Montevideo. And also my favorite restaurant, "La Matriz". You'll only find locals here, mostly people from banks and businesses, having lunch (it's closed evenings save for weekends). Choose from the specials, they're always great and fresh!
  • The "rambla" or boardwalk along the river, but not in the historical area. To fully savor the rambla you need to go to Pocitos, starting at Rambla Gandhi and onwards. It's a 15 min cab ride. There you'll find beaches, little cafes and also the "Punta Carretas Shopping Center". It's the mall I like the ebst: rather compact, but has all the nice stores and near enough to the city to go back to the port and still make it to the ferry!
  • Carrasco: this residential area is about 40 min cab ride from downtown. It's nice to stroll the shady streets, but it doesn't offer much more. There's a big Hotel in remodel, apparently it will convert to a Marriot once it's finished but they're working for ages already. It's one of the grand Hotels from the turn of 10th century. Inside there's a casino working, but unfortunately the rest of the hotel remains closed to the public.

Punta del Este is also worth mentioning. It's a beautiful (and big) town on the Atlantic ocean, about 2 hs from Montevideo. Best enjoyed in summer of course. It has become very posh and celebrities as well as prince Albert of Monaco are a staple in the summer. There are lots of hotels and a big casino. It's basically the place to go to see and be seen.

For those who love off the ebaten path adventures, I have another tip. You can go to La Pedrera or even better, Los Chorros. This is a little town past Punta del Este, and the only way to reach it is by jeep (4x4) or horseback, so you go on the beach, road is unmarked, and you have to take a compass. They don´t have electricity or telephone. It´s more of a summer getaway again, but I´m sure you´ll find it charming even in winter.

Wherever you decide to go, hope you have a great time!

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