Patagonian Classics Part 3: El Chalten

Ten years ago, El Chalten was a very small town, with less than 100 inhabitants. It was originally built by the Argentinean government to fortify the borders from Chilean advances (Chile had advanced on the Argentine border and had to retire after Pope John Paul II mediated in the Continental Ice Treaty, but to prevent future advances, Chalten was established). This is the reason the town is geographically located in the worst place: in the middle of a wind corridor. So expect a lot of wind when you go there!
In the last years it has suffered an enormous transformation, increasing its population enormously. All of this started when a new road was built to connect it with El Calafate. A building boom followed and many Hotels established in a town where there used to be only a Hostel for the adventurous who came to climb the famous Chalten volcano (formerly known as Fitz Roy) and Cerro Torre. If you visit the maountain climbers cemetery, you will see that that, as peaceful and beautiful as they may seem, these mountains have claimed many a life.
The biggest attraction in Chalten is still the trekking and climbing experiences it offers. From the town you can reach the Del Torres Glacier in about 3 hours. It is a moderately easy trekking, along forest paths that become arid, mountainous landscape once you reach the ice fields. From there the trekking becomes increasingly difficult with the final climb left only to the most experienced mountain climbers. In any case, don´t go alone, hire an expert guide. This area has particularly quick changing weather conditions and though you may think you are going out on a calm day, two hours later tehre might be a strong storm beating down the area. Be careful.
Another way of seeing the Glaciers is by sailing on Lake Viedma, which can only be done with favourable weather conditions.
Among the famous settlers is the fascinating story of Federico Otten. He was the first to settle in this area, way before the Ice Treaty. The son of Princess Marguerita of Sicily and Archduke Leopold II of Habsburg, he was sent ito exile to Patagonia for conspiring against his uncle, emperor Francis Joseph of Austria. This gives you an idea how desolate this area must have been a hundered years ago.

Patagonian Classics Part 2: Around Villa La Angostura

La Angostura means "the narrowing" and it refers to the narrowing of the lake Nahuel Huapi on which it is situated.
The Lake can be enjoyed in a variety of ways. La Angostura offers the most favourable conditions for fishing, with a reasonably sized port and professional guides. Another option is to embark from Las Balsas Hotel to the Llao Llao Hotel (a mytical hotel built by architect Bustillo, 20 kms from Barioloche). If you can´t afford to stay in either of these luxury Hotels, at least try to savour a scrumptious tea in either restaurant with a beautiful view on the Lake (I personally would choose Llao Llao Hotel for the history of this place: many presidents, kings and dignataries stayed here).
Both from Barioloche as from La Angostura you can visit the "Bosque de Arrayanes", one of very few myrtle forests in the world. If you decide to do this excursion from Bariolche, a boat will take you to the Isla Vistoria and from tehre to the forest. From La Angostura, you will get there through 12 km of pleasant paths by the Quetrihué peninsula.
The myrtle forest is enchanting and magical, a cool, dark and mostly silent place (unless you happen to be with loud fellow travellers...). The myrtle´s new shoots are extremely delicate, so please refrain from touching them. It is here that Walt Disney, on a visit to Argentina, got the inspiration for depicting the forest in the film "Bambi".
On Provincial Route 231 is a detour that climbs to the Bayo Mountain along 6 km of good gravel roads. There is also a chair lift for those who rather leave the car and enjoy the views of lakes Nahuel Huapi, Espejo and Correntoso River.