San Martin de los Andes is a thrill both in winter -with lots of snow and ski sasons that can last until october!- and summer, when rivers overflow with water and nature is in full bloom.
But it is in summer when the long walks and the exploring of thsi wonderful area can be done best.
Arriving usually in the afternoon, a good starting point for the weary traveller is a nice meal at La Tasca. Here you can satisfy your cravings for deer and trout. Another option is El Radal, which incorporates some "lighter" options on the menu.
The rest of the afternoon is well spent browsing shops with local crafts. Some shops to check out are La oveja Negra and Raices, with knitwear and wooden carvings.
The next morning you should first check the weather. If it looks like it can get windy, leave the visit to the Lolog for another day. This is the first lake to the north and although it´s fairly close, it offers a completely different scenery. It is renowned for being very changeable. If you visit it on a calm day it looks like a greenish mirror. Fishing addicts should check out Cabañas Andinas, where you´ll find fishing facilities. Here you can catch salmon, perch, brown and rainbow trout.
On the other side of the lake at the bottom end you´ll find Karl Moritz, a famous inhabitant. He has been living here since 1986 and is a painter and observer of trees and birds of the area. On the way back, there are riding excursions offered. From the back of a horse is one of the best ways to come in contact with the Andes and it´s stunning beauty.
The following day, prepare yourself for a close encounter with the conical symbol that gave it´s name to the National Park, the Lanin volcano. You´ll ascend in a circular circuit that takes you by Curruhue Chico and Grande rivers and Toro Verde and Escorial Lagoon, steps away from dark, solidified lava. When you reach the banks of Lake Epulaufken, you can take a boat to Puerto Canoa coffee shop for lunch. Or you could also stay at the Huechulaufken Inn, on the riverbank.
In the afternoon return to San Martin de los Andes through Junin de los Andes on the paved route 234.
The last day is for the adventurous ones, seeking adrenaline on the Hua Hum River. A guided excursion takes you on the Lacar lake and over the border for a quick visit of the Chilean side. Warning: you will probably get soaked!
sábado, 19 de junio de 2010
3 days in Ushuaia
Ushuaia means "the bay that looks to the sunset". It lies on paralell 52° and was founded on october 12th, 1884.
Known in the past for it´s feared Prision (where the worst criminals were sent due to the impossibility of escape), now it is a bustling town at the end of Tierra del Fuego. It is also the southernmost city in the world, only 1000 km from Antartica.
Three days seems just enough to start knowing this beautiful area.
FIRST DAY:
Start the day getting acquainted with the town´s origins and history. Visit the Museum of the End of the World, on Maipu Avenue.
Here you will learn that it was Thomas Bridges who established the first colony with the mission to bring the Gospel to the indians. But later he abandoned this mission to establish himself as the first "estanciero" or ranch owner. His still wealthy descendants live around Haberton Bay.
After this visit, you can go for a refreshment at Volver, a restaurant established in what is believed to have been the house of the last Ona, the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego.
Now you can continue to the Former Prison which is right aroud the corner. This jail was in function from 1910 to 1947. The same prisioners helped build the massive building. It seems amazing how both prisioners and guards had to endure freezing temperatures and precarious living standards. The worst criminal ever sent here was the infanticide Cayetano Santos Godino, known as the "little man with big ears". ven in prision he commited a last crime, killing the prision´s cat, which cost him also his life. Nowadays you can visit the cells and see recreations of life during those harsh years.
With the prision came also slowly the telephone, a press, electricity and a railroad needed to transport the prisioners to the woods where they cut lumber to heat the buildings in winter.
By now it will be time to have lunch, which you can do at Tia Elvira, where they serve good pasta and fish with a nice view of the Canal.
In the afternoon, take one of the boat excursions. In about three hours, you will sail the Bay, and visit the Bridges Islands, the elephant seal´s island (usually covered in every last inch by these animals), the island of Birds and the typical postcard image, the Les Eclairerurs Lighthouse.
If you still have time in the afternoon it´s worth to go have some tea at La Cabaña. This teahouse is located on km 4,5 on Camino del Martial, on the mountain and in front of the Bay. Watching the sunset from here guarantees an unforgettable memory.
If you prefer, you can stay in the city and have dinner at Federico Trattoria, a local favorite for pasta and small dishes at moderate prices.
SECOND DAY
This day you wil explore outside the city, to find lakes, mountains, ocean, forests and snow.
To get to the Escondido Lake (50 kms from town) you will travel down route 3. Once arrived, you can visit a small waterfall Velo de Novia, a few valleys (Carbajal and Tierra mayor), Rancho Hambre and Paso Garibaldi.
For lunch stay at Hosteria Petrel, on the same lake.
In the afternoon you can continue to Fagnano Lake, about 100 km from the city. Here you will find a few sawmills and a fabulous nature. Continue through laguna Verde, Dique de los Castores until you arrive to Hostería Kaiken, on the tip of Fagnano Lake.
You will probably return to Ushuaia at night, so go have dinner directly to Kaupé, a good restuarant with a nice athmosphere.
THIRD DAY
Early in the morning, go to the End of the World Railroad Station which lies 8 km outside the city to the west. Here you can choose a "tourist" ticket or a "first class" ticket, the difference being that in first class you will be served something to eat, and the seats are a bit comfier (tourist has wooden seats).
The train is so small that it is impossible to walk in the wagons. You will travel the same circuit that the inmates from the prision did to chop wood for fuel.
There is one stop on the route with a short walk to a waterfall. The railroad ends inside the National Park of Tierra del Fuego, so from here you can do numerous and beautiful walks. Laguna Negra and Yaghanes conchales are favourite destinations. Ideally you would take the first train of the morning at 9:30 and leave with the penultimate at 16:00, so you can have enough time to walk. Don´t forget to pack something to lunch on!
Back to Ushuaia, you can spend the rest of the time exploring the principal avenue -Avenida San Martin- and browse the shops.
For an ideal ending try to have some spider crab -centolla- . This is one of very few locations in the world where you will find it fresh, just fished, and never frozen.
One choice could be the restuarant of the Las Hayas Hotel. You will need some fancier dress for this 5 star hotel but the atmosphere is worth the splurge.
Enjoy!
Known in the past for it´s feared Prision (where the worst criminals were sent due to the impossibility of escape), now it is a bustling town at the end of Tierra del Fuego. It is also the southernmost city in the world, only 1000 km from Antartica.
Three days seems just enough to start knowing this beautiful area.
FIRST DAY:
Start the day getting acquainted with the town´s origins and history. Visit the Museum of the End of the World, on Maipu Avenue.
Here you will learn that it was Thomas Bridges who established the first colony with the mission to bring the Gospel to the indians. But later he abandoned this mission to establish himself as the first "estanciero" or ranch owner. His still wealthy descendants live around Haberton Bay.
After this visit, you can go for a refreshment at Volver, a restaurant established in what is believed to have been the house of the last Ona, the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego.
Now you can continue to the Former Prison which is right aroud the corner. This jail was in function from 1910 to 1947. The same prisioners helped build the massive building. It seems amazing how both prisioners and guards had to endure freezing temperatures and precarious living standards. The worst criminal ever sent here was the infanticide Cayetano Santos Godino, known as the "little man with big ears". ven in prision he commited a last crime, killing the prision´s cat, which cost him also his life. Nowadays you can visit the cells and see recreations of life during those harsh years.
With the prision came also slowly the telephone, a press, electricity and a railroad needed to transport the prisioners to the woods where they cut lumber to heat the buildings in winter.
By now it will be time to have lunch, which you can do at Tia Elvira, where they serve good pasta and fish with a nice view of the Canal.
In the afternoon, take one of the boat excursions. In about three hours, you will sail the Bay, and visit the Bridges Islands, the elephant seal´s island (usually covered in every last inch by these animals), the island of Birds and the typical postcard image, the Les Eclairerurs Lighthouse.
If you still have time in the afternoon it´s worth to go have some tea at La Cabaña. This teahouse is located on km 4,5 on Camino del Martial, on the mountain and in front of the Bay. Watching the sunset from here guarantees an unforgettable memory.
If you prefer, you can stay in the city and have dinner at Federico Trattoria, a local favorite for pasta and small dishes at moderate prices.
SECOND DAY
This day you wil explore outside the city, to find lakes, mountains, ocean, forests and snow.
To get to the Escondido Lake (50 kms from town) you will travel down route 3. Once arrived, you can visit a small waterfall Velo de Novia, a few valleys (Carbajal and Tierra mayor), Rancho Hambre and Paso Garibaldi.
For lunch stay at Hosteria Petrel, on the same lake.
In the afternoon you can continue to Fagnano Lake, about 100 km from the city. Here you will find a few sawmills and a fabulous nature. Continue through laguna Verde, Dique de los Castores until you arrive to Hostería Kaiken, on the tip of Fagnano Lake.
You will probably return to Ushuaia at night, so go have dinner directly to Kaupé, a good restuarant with a nice athmosphere.
THIRD DAY
Early in the morning, go to the End of the World Railroad Station which lies 8 km outside the city to the west. Here you can choose a "tourist" ticket or a "first class" ticket, the difference being that in first class you will be served something to eat, and the seats are a bit comfier (tourist has wooden seats).
The train is so small that it is impossible to walk in the wagons. You will travel the same circuit that the inmates from the prision did to chop wood for fuel.
There is one stop on the route with a short walk to a waterfall. The railroad ends inside the National Park of Tierra del Fuego, so from here you can do numerous and beautiful walks. Laguna Negra and Yaghanes conchales are favourite destinations. Ideally you would take the first train of the morning at 9:30 and leave with the penultimate at 16:00, so you can have enough time to walk. Don´t forget to pack something to lunch on!
Back to Ushuaia, you can spend the rest of the time exploring the principal avenue -Avenida San Martin- and browse the shops.
For an ideal ending try to have some spider crab -centolla- . This is one of very few locations in the world where you will find it fresh, just fished, and never frozen.
One choice could be the restuarant of the Las Hayas Hotel. You will need some fancier dress for this 5 star hotel but the atmosphere is worth the splurge.
Enjoy!
domingo, 2 de agosto de 2009
The other side of the pond
OK, so this is a blog about Argentina. But I feel it wouldn't be complete without the mention of a wonderful sidetrip you can make to neighbouring Uruguay. It can be a day trip, or something a bit longer, and it's really worth it. Just hop into a ferry and let's explore "the other side of the pond"!
Uruguayan immigration regulations are similar as those in Argentina, so if you don't need a visa for one country, you won't need it for the other as well.
The best way to go to Uruguay is by Buquebus ferry. Sure, there is planes, but the ferry in itself is part of the experience! There's two destinations reached by Buquebus: Colonia and Montevideo (and sometimes, in summer, they add on another ship to Piriapolis which is near trendy summer spot Punta del Este). From Colonia there's buses to Montevideo, as well as from Montevideo to Punta del Este, which you can book directly from Buquebus ( a combo ticket).
If you plan a daytrip the best is to visit Colonia only. It's a charming town with a well preserved historic center complete with cobblestone streets and old portuguese houses. You can visit one of those houses (Museo Portugues), the lighthouse (you can even climb up!) and the old church and fort walls. Then just give yourself permission to loose yourself in the myriad of small streets and stop every now and then at a little bar (confiteria) for a coffe or refreshment. Buquebus offers a day program that includes the round trip, lunch at a nice restaurant and a guided visit to the historical center (which lasts about 1 hour), then some free time before reboarding the ferry. It's a fun excursion.
If you decide to visit Montevideo, it's best to leave yourself at least a full day to do so. Montevideo again has a well conserved historic center, the "ciudad vieja". It also serves as the banking district, so it's safe to wander during the day, but excercise caution in the evening as there has been a raise in criminality.
Some Montevideo attractions:
Uruguayan immigration regulations are similar as those in Argentina, so if you don't need a visa for one country, you won't need it for the other as well.
The best way to go to Uruguay is by Buquebus ferry. Sure, there is planes, but the ferry in itself is part of the experience! There's two destinations reached by Buquebus: Colonia and Montevideo (and sometimes, in summer, they add on another ship to Piriapolis which is near trendy summer spot Punta del Este). From Colonia there's buses to Montevideo, as well as from Montevideo to Punta del Este, which you can book directly from Buquebus ( a combo ticket).
If you plan a daytrip the best is to visit Colonia only. It's a charming town with a well preserved historic center complete with cobblestone streets and old portuguese houses. You can visit one of those houses (Museo Portugues), the lighthouse (you can even climb up!) and the old church and fort walls. Then just give yourself permission to loose yourself in the myriad of small streets and stop every now and then at a little bar (confiteria) for a coffe or refreshment. Buquebus offers a day program that includes the round trip, lunch at a nice restaurant and a guided visit to the historical center (which lasts about 1 hour), then some free time before reboarding the ferry. It's a fun excursion.
If you decide to visit Montevideo, it's best to leave yourself at least a full day to do so. Montevideo again has a well conserved historic center, the "ciudad vieja". It also serves as the banking district, so it's safe to wander during the day, but excercise caution in the evening as there has been a raise in criminality.
Some Montevideo attractions:
- The port itself: there are some wonderful parrillas to have lunch just in front of the exit of the port. OK, so they are a lot of tourists there, but it doesn't really matter since there will be locals too. Plus, there are some crafts stands that are really nice.
- The "Plaza Matriz", a park in the middle of the historical center, that has a beautiful marble fountain. Sometimes you can find craft stands here too.
- Directly on the Plaza Matriz you'll find a beautiful church, the Iglesia Matriz, first one in Montevideo. And also my favorite restaurant, "La Matriz". You'll only find locals here, mostly people from banks and businesses, having lunch (it's closed evenings save for weekends). Choose from the specials, they're always great and fresh!
- The "rambla" or boardwalk along the river, but not in the historical area. To fully savor the rambla you need to go to Pocitos, starting at Rambla Gandhi and onwards. It's a 15 min cab ride. There you'll find beaches, little cafes and also the "Punta Carretas Shopping Center". It's the mall I like the ebst: rather compact, but has all the nice stores and near enough to the city to go back to the port and still make it to the ferry!
- Carrasco: this residential area is about 40 min cab ride from downtown. It's nice to stroll the shady streets, but it doesn't offer much more. There's a big Hotel in remodel, apparently it will convert to a Marriot once it's finished but they're working for ages already. It's one of the grand Hotels from the turn of 10th century. Inside there's a casino working, but unfortunately the rest of the hotel remains closed to the public.
Punta del Este is also worth mentioning. It's a beautiful (and big) town on the Atlantic ocean, about 2 hs from Montevideo. Best enjoyed in summer of course. It has become very posh and celebrities as well as prince Albert of Monaco are a staple in the summer. There are lots of hotels and a big casino. It's basically the place to go to see and be seen.
For those who love off the ebaten path adventures, I have another tip. You can go to La Pedrera or even better, Los Chorros. This is a little town past Punta del Este, and the only way to reach it is by jeep (4x4) or horseback, so you go on the beach, road is unmarked, and you have to take a compass. They don´t have electricity or telephone. It´s more of a summer getaway again, but I´m sure you´ll find it charming even in winter.
Wherever you decide to go, hope you have a great time!
domingo, 27 de abril de 2008
Fashion
This is a great city for fashion!
Argentinean designers are trendy and creative.
Kosiuko, Caro Cuore, Ayres, Como quieres que te quiera, 47th Street; are some examples of the new young fashion. You´ll find these at all shopping malls, such as: Galerias Pacifico (downtown), Unicenter (in Martinez, a northern suburb), Alto Palermo (in Palermo aerea).
In Recoleta you´ll also find the more "serious" international fashion and accessories such as Hermes, Escada, Chanel, etc.
Some must-buys:
-Leather goods: the best is the lamb leather, it´s soft as silk. Be it jackets, shoes, coats: get them all! And prices are unbeatable.
- Fun fashion (embroidered jeans, fun T-shirts): Kosiuko, 47th street
- More elegant fashion: Ayres, Awada
-Jewelry: At Libertad street (downtown), real diamonds for the best price you´ll get.
Argentinean designers are trendy and creative.
Kosiuko, Caro Cuore, Ayres, Como quieres que te quiera, 47th Street; are some examples of the new young fashion. You´ll find these at all shopping malls, such as: Galerias Pacifico (downtown), Unicenter (in Martinez, a northern suburb), Alto Palermo (in Palermo aerea).
In Recoleta you´ll also find the more "serious" international fashion and accessories such as Hermes, Escada, Chanel, etc.
Some must-buys:
-Leather goods: the best is the lamb leather, it´s soft as silk. Be it jackets, shoes, coats: get them all! And prices are unbeatable.
- Fun fashion (embroidered jeans, fun T-shirts): Kosiuko, 47th street
- More elegant fashion: Ayres, Awada
-Jewelry: At Libertad street (downtown), real diamonds for the best price you´ll get.
Religion
Official religion in Argentina is Roman Catholic. However, many other religions coexist, and you´ll find Sinagogues and Mosques in Buenos Aires. There is reliogious freedom.
Safety
Some common-sense advise:
- Don´t wear flashy or expensive looking jewelry
- Be attentive to your surroundings, there are pickpockets
- Try to wear your purse in a way that snatching is difficult- Don´t show a bundle of money in the open
- Have small change on hand for small purchases
- Be attentive especially when tango dancers are performing on the street. People (tourists) gather around and it´s easy for pickpockets
As or safety, I´m sorry to tell you this is not one of the safest cities in the world. Criminality has risen a lot.
Some more advice: avoid alcoholic intoxication when you go out at night, and try to take only cabs that you call on the phone. When you come home at night, look very well around you when approaching your building. Always try to let someone know where you are going and approximately when you´ll be back. And don´t ever go with unknown people to a vulnerable place (like their house or appartment): to do so, you have to know at least one person from the group.
- Don´t wear flashy or expensive looking jewelry
- Be attentive to your surroundings, there are pickpockets
- Try to wear your purse in a way that snatching is difficult- Don´t show a bundle of money in the open
- Have small change on hand for small purchases
- Be attentive especially when tango dancers are performing on the street. People (tourists) gather around and it´s easy for pickpockets
As or safety, I´m sorry to tell you this is not one of the safest cities in the world. Criminality has risen a lot.
Some more advice: avoid alcoholic intoxication when you go out at night, and try to take only cabs that you call on the phone. When you come home at night, look very well around you when approaching your building. Always try to let someone know where you are going and approximately when you´ll be back. And don´t ever go with unknown people to a vulnerable place (like their house or appartment): to do so, you have to know at least one person from the group.
Machistic people in BA?
People in Buenos Aires are not as machistic as anywhere else in South America, however, they are more machistic than in the USA or Europe in general. There are still clubs for men only, and men tend to see women as weaker and less capable.
Most women here work outside home, then come back and tend to their homes. On the other side, domestic help once or twice a week is not uncommon, as it´s relatively cheap (about 2 US dollars an hour).
Most women here work outside home, then come back and tend to their homes. On the other side, domestic help once or twice a week is not uncommon, as it´s relatively cheap (about 2 US dollars an hour).
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