If you like wine... .

Did you know that Argentina is one of the largest wine producers in the world (if you like exact numbers, I believe it´s ranked fifth)? Well not really surprising, because what goes better paired with a nice steak than a good glass of red wine? Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo are just a few varieties that develop exceptionally well in our soils. Some people have compared them as being equal in quality (if not even superior... sorry!) to the best vineyards in France.

Most wineries are located in Mendoza, a province that borders the Andes, but there are others to the north in Salta and some others well in the south in Rio Negro. Honestly, in my personal opinion the climate in Mendoza can hardly be beaten in terms of producing a rich quality wine. The big exception might be the Syrah, a grape that grows excellent in Salta. The vineyards lay at an average of 2000-3000 ft high and that allows for lots of heat during the day but also a cool night, essential in order for the grape to retain sugar and sweetness.

If you are in Mendoza, don´t miss a wine tour. Many hotels organize these wine tasting tours as half day or full day excursions. If you would like to devote more time to discover the different varieties, you can rent a remis, a car with a driver that charges by the hour or even by the day (this being the best option) and visit Bodegas that open to the general public.

Some of the bodegas (vineyards) in Mendoza that open to general public are:

* Familia Zuccardi: located in valle de Uco, offers wine tastings and it also has a restaurant open for lunch and dinner

* Trapiche: located in Coquimbito, Maipu. Offers wine tastings

*Terrazas de los Andes: in Lujan de Cuyo, has one of the oldest Malbec vineyards (from 1929). It offers wine tastings, a small restaurant (finger food) but also the possibility of staying overnight (6 rooms)

*Salentein: in Valle de Uco, offers not only the traditional wine tastings but also arts and architecture tours, a half day with the resident enologist, cooking classes, and horseback riding. Nearby there are also accomodations with 16 rooms.

This is just a small selection of literally thousands of wineries... you´ll definitely experience the torture of having to choose!

Even though wine consumption is alive and well, Argentineans used to drink much more per capita in the past. Local consumption has been steadily falling in favour of beer. Maybe it is because it is cheaper, or maybe it´s more hip between the younger generations. I know Quilmes, the big brewing company, has been doing some excellent and funny ads oriented towards the younger. Whereas I have hardly seen any publicity for wine whatsoever.

While in Mendoza, there´s so much more to do: whitewater rafting, horseback riding, mountain climbing, trout fishing.... I´ll write about that in another entry.

Now enjoy the peacefulness of a hot summer day, sitting in the cool shade of a vine, enjoying a great Angus steak with a little greens and cheese salad, and sipping a beautiful deep red Merlot, aromas ranging from framboise to a hint of vanilla.... life can be wonderful. Just beware of the old saying: In vino veritas! (In the wine lies the truth).

Patagonian Classics Part 3: El Chalten

Ten years ago, El Chalten was a very small town, with less than 100 inhabitants. It was originally built by the Argentinean government to fortify the borders from Chilean advances (Chile had advanced on the Argentine border and had to retire after Pope John Paul II mediated in the Continental Ice Treaty, but to prevent future advances, Chalten was established). This is the reason the town is geographically located in the worst place: in the middle of a wind corridor. So expect a lot of wind when you go there!
In the last years it has suffered an enormous transformation, increasing its population enormously. All of this started when a new road was built to connect it with El Calafate. A building boom followed and many Hotels established in a town where there used to be only a Hostel for the adventurous who came to climb the famous Chalten volcano (formerly known as Fitz Roy) and Cerro Torre. If you visit the maountain climbers cemetery, you will see that that, as peaceful and beautiful as they may seem, these mountains have claimed many a life.
The biggest attraction in Chalten is still the trekking and climbing experiences it offers. From the town you can reach the Del Torres Glacier in about 3 hours. It is a moderately easy trekking, along forest paths that become arid, mountainous landscape once you reach the ice fields. From there the trekking becomes increasingly difficult with the final climb left only to the most experienced mountain climbers. In any case, don´t go alone, hire an expert guide. This area has particularly quick changing weather conditions and though you may think you are going out on a calm day, two hours later tehre might be a strong storm beating down the area. Be careful.
Another way of seeing the Glaciers is by sailing on Lake Viedma, which can only be done with favourable weather conditions.
Among the famous settlers is the fascinating story of Federico Otten. He was the first to settle in this area, way before the Ice Treaty. The son of Princess Marguerita of Sicily and Archduke Leopold II of Habsburg, he was sent ito exile to Patagonia for conspiring against his uncle, emperor Francis Joseph of Austria. This gives you an idea how desolate this area must have been a hundered years ago.

Patagonian Classics Part 2: Around Villa La Angostura

La Angostura means "the narrowing" and it refers to the narrowing of the lake Nahuel Huapi on which it is situated.
The Lake can be enjoyed in a variety of ways. La Angostura offers the most favourable conditions for fishing, with a reasonably sized port and professional guides. Another option is to embark from Las Balsas Hotel to the Llao Llao Hotel (a mytical hotel built by architect Bustillo, 20 kms from Barioloche). If you can´t afford to stay in either of these luxury Hotels, at least try to savour a scrumptious tea in either restaurant with a beautiful view on the Lake (I personally would choose Llao Llao Hotel for the history of this place: many presidents, kings and dignataries stayed here).
Both from Barioloche as from La Angostura you can visit the "Bosque de Arrayanes", one of very few myrtle forests in the world. If you decide to do this excursion from Bariolche, a boat will take you to the Isla Vistoria and from tehre to the forest. From La Angostura, you will get there through 12 km of pleasant paths by the Quetrihué peninsula.
The myrtle forest is enchanting and magical, a cool, dark and mostly silent place (unless you happen to be with loud fellow travellers...). The myrtle´s new shoots are extremely delicate, so please refrain from touching them. It is here that Walt Disney, on a visit to Argentina, got the inspiration for depicting the forest in the film "Bambi".
On Provincial Route 231 is a detour that climbs to the Bayo Mountain along 6 km of good gravel roads. There is also a chair lift for those who rather leave the car and enjoy the views of lakes Nahuel Huapi, Espejo and Correntoso River.

Patagonian Classics part 1: San Martin de los Andes

San Martin de los Andes is a thrill both in winter -with lots of snow and ski sasons that can last until october!- and summer, when rivers overflow with water and nature is in full bloom.

But it is in summer when the long walks and the exploring of thsi wonderful area can be done best.

Arriving usually in the afternoon, a good starting point for the weary traveller is a nice meal at La Tasca. Here you can satisfy your cravings for deer and trout. Another option is El Radal, which incorporates some "lighter" options on the menu.
The rest of the afternoon is well spent browsing shops with local crafts. Some shops to check out are La oveja Negra and Raices, with knitwear and wooden carvings.

The next morning you should first check the weather. If it looks like it can get windy, leave the visit to the Lolog for another day. This is the first lake to the north and although it´s fairly close, it offers a completely different scenery. It is renowned for being very changeable. If you visit it on a calm day it looks like a greenish mirror. Fishing addicts should check out Cabañas Andinas, where you´ll find fishing facilities. Here you can catch salmon, perch, brown and rainbow trout.
On the other side of the lake at the bottom end you´ll find Karl Moritz, a famous inhabitant. He has been living here since 1986 and is a painter and observer of trees and birds of the area. On the way back, there are riding excursions offered. From the back of a horse is one of the best ways to come in contact with the Andes and it´s stunning beauty.

The following day, prepare yourself for a close encounter with the conical symbol that gave it´s name to the National Park, the Lanin volcano. You´ll ascend in a circular circuit that takes you by Curruhue Chico and Grande rivers and Toro Verde and Escorial Lagoon, steps away from dark, solidified lava. When you reach the banks of Lake Epulaufken, you can take a boat to Puerto Canoa coffee shop for lunch. Or you could also stay at the Huechulaufken Inn, on the riverbank.
In the afternoon return to San Martin de los Andes through Junin de los Andes on the paved route 234.

The last day is for the adventurous ones, seeking adrenaline on the Hua Hum River. A guided excursion takes you on the Lacar lake and over the border for a quick visit of the Chilean side. Warning: you will probably get soaked!

3 days in Ushuaia

Ushuaia means "the bay that looks to the sunset". It lies on paralell 52° and was founded on october 12th, 1884.
Known in the past for it´s feared Prision (where the worst criminals were sent due to the impossibility of escape), now it is a bustling town at the end of Tierra del Fuego. It is also the southernmost city in the world, only 1000 km from Antartica.
Three days seems just enough to start knowing this beautiful area.

FIRST DAY:

Start the day getting acquainted with the town´s origins and history. Visit the Museum of the End of the World, on Maipu Avenue.
Here you will learn that it was Thomas Bridges who established the first colony with the mission to bring the Gospel to the indians. But later he abandoned this mission to establish himself as the first "estanciero" or ranch owner. His still wealthy descendants live around Haberton Bay.
After this visit, you can go for a refreshment at Volver, a restaurant established in what is believed to have been the house of the last Ona, the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego.
Now you can continue to the Former Prison which is right aroud the corner. This jail was in function from 1910 to 1947. The same prisioners helped build the massive building. It seems amazing how both prisioners and guards had to endure freezing temperatures and precarious living standards. The worst criminal ever sent here was the infanticide Cayetano Santos Godino, known as the "little man with big ears". ven in prision he commited a last crime, killing the prision´s cat, which cost him also his life. Nowadays you can visit the cells and see recreations of life during those harsh years.
With the prision came also slowly the telephone, a press, electricity and a railroad needed to transport the prisioners to the woods where they cut lumber to heat the buildings in winter.
By now it will be time to have lunch, which you can do at Tia Elvira, where they serve good pasta and fish with a nice view of the Canal.
In the afternoon, take one of the boat excursions. In about three hours, you will sail the Bay, and visit the Bridges Islands, the elephant seal´s island (usually covered in every last inch by these animals), the island of Birds and the typical postcard image, the Les Eclairerurs Lighthouse.
If you still have time in the afternoon it´s worth to go have some tea at La Cabaña. This teahouse is located on km 4,5 on Camino del Martial, on the mountain and in front of the Bay. Watching the sunset from here guarantees an unforgettable memory.
If you prefer, you can stay in the city and have dinner at Federico Trattoria, a local favorite for pasta and small dishes at moderate prices.

SECOND DAY

This day you wil explore outside the city, to find lakes, mountains, ocean, forests and snow.
To get to the Escondido Lake (50 kms from town) you will travel down route 3. Once arrived, you can visit a small waterfall Velo de Novia, a few valleys (Carbajal and Tierra mayor), Rancho Hambre and Paso Garibaldi.
For lunch stay at Hosteria Petrel, on the same lake.
In the afternoon you can continue to Fagnano Lake, about 100 km from the city. Here you will find a few sawmills and a fabulous nature. Continue through laguna Verde, Dique de los Castores until you arrive to Hostería Kaiken, on the tip of Fagnano Lake.
You will probably return to Ushuaia at night, so go have dinner directly to Kaupé, a good restuarant with a nice athmosphere.

THIRD DAY

Early in the morning, go to the End of the World Railroad Station which lies 8 km outside the city to the west. Here you can choose a "tourist" ticket or a "first class" ticket, the difference being that in first class you will be served something to eat, and the seats are a bit comfier (tourist has wooden seats).
The train is so small that it is impossible to walk in the wagons. You will travel the same circuit that the inmates from the prision did to chop wood for fuel.
There is one stop on the route with a short walk to a waterfall. The railroad ends inside the National Park of Tierra del Fuego, so from here you can do numerous and beautiful walks. Laguna Negra and Yaghanes conchales are favourite destinations. Ideally you would take the first train of the morning at 9:30 and leave with the penultimate at 16:00, so you can have enough time to walk. Don´t forget to pack something to lunch on!
Back to Ushuaia, you can spend the rest of the time exploring the principal avenue -Avenida San Martin- and browse the shops.
For an ideal ending try to have some spider crab -centolla- . This is one of very few locations in the world where you will find it fresh, just fished, and never frozen.
One choice could be the restuarant of the Las Hayas Hotel. You will need some fancier dress for this 5 star hotel but the atmosphere is worth the splurge.

Enjoy!

The other side of the pond

OK, so this is a blog about Argentina. But I feel it wouldn't be complete without the mention of a wonderful sidetrip you can make to neighbouring Uruguay. It can be a day trip, or something a bit longer, and it's really worth it. Just hop into a ferry and let's explore "the other side of the pond"!
Uruguayan immigration regulations are similar as those in Argentina, so if you don't need a visa for one country, you won't need it for the other as well.
The best way to go to Uruguay is by Buquebus ferry. Sure, there is planes, but the ferry in itself is part of the experience! There's two destinations reached by Buquebus: Colonia and Montevideo (and sometimes, in summer, they add on another ship to Piriapolis which is near trendy summer spot Punta del Este). From Colonia there's buses to Montevideo, as well as from Montevideo to Punta del Este, which you can book directly from Buquebus ( a combo ticket).
If you plan a daytrip the best is to visit Colonia only. It's a charming town with a well preserved historic center complete with cobblestone streets and old portuguese houses. You can visit one of those houses (Museo Portugues), the lighthouse (you can even climb up!) and the old church and fort walls. Then just give yourself permission to loose yourself in the myriad of small streets and stop every now and then at a little bar (confiteria) for a coffe or refreshment. Buquebus offers a day program that includes the round trip, lunch at a nice restaurant and a guided visit to the historical center (which lasts about 1 hour), then some free time before reboarding the ferry. It's a fun excursion.
If you decide to visit Montevideo, it's best to leave yourself at least a full day to do so. Montevideo again has a well conserved historic center, the "ciudad vieja". It also serves as the banking district, so it's safe to wander during the day, but excercise caution in the evening as there has been a raise in criminality.
Some Montevideo attractions:

• The port itself: there are some wonderful parrillas to have lunch just in front of the exit of the port. OK, so they are a lot of tourists there, but it doesn't really matter since there will be locals too. Plus, there are some crafts stands that are really nice.
• The "Plaza Matriz", a park in the middle of the historical center, that has a beautiful marble fountain. Sometimes you can find craft stands here too.
• Directly on the Plaza Matriz you'll find a beautiful church, the Iglesia Matriz, first one in Montevideo. And also my favorite restaurant, "La Matriz". You'll only find locals here, mostly people from banks and businesses, having lunch (it's closed evenings save for weekends). Choose from the specials, they're always great and fresh!
• The "rambla" or boardwalk along the river, but not in the historical area. To fully savor the rambla you need to go to Pocitos, starting at Rambla Gandhi and onwards. It's a 15 min cab ride. There you'll find beaches, little cafes and also the "Punta Carretas Shopping Center". It's the mall I like the ebst: rather compact, but has all the nice stores and near enough to the city to go back to the port and still make it to the ferry!
• Carrasco: this residential area is about 40 min cab ride from downtown. It's nice to stroll the shady streets, but it doesn't offer much more. There's a big Hotel in remodel, apparently it will convert to a Marriot once it's finished but they're working for ages already. It's one of the grand Hotels from the turn of 10th century. Inside there's a casino working, but unfortunately the rest of the hotel remains closed to the public.

Punta del Este is also worth mentioning. It's a beautiful (and big) town on the Atlantic ocean, about 2 hs from Montevideo. Best enjoyed in summer of course. It has become very posh and celebrities as well as prince Albert of Monaco are a staple in the summer. There are lots of hotels and a big casino. It's basically the place to go to see and be seen.

For those who love off the ebaten path adventures, I have another tip. You can go to La Pedrera or even better, Los Chorros. This is a little town past Punta del Este, and the only way to reach it is by jeep (4x4) or horseback, so you go on the beach, road is unmarked, and you have to take a compass. They don´t have electricity or telephone. It´s more of a summer getaway again, but I´m sure you´ll find it charming even in winter.

Wherever you decide to go, hope you have a great time!

Fashion

This is a great city for fashion!

Argentinean designers are trendy and creative.
Kosiuko, Caro Cuore, Ayres, Como quieres que te quiera, 47th Street; are some examples of the new young fashion. You´ll find these at all shopping malls, such as: Galerias Pacifico (downtown), Unicenter (in Martinez, a northern suburb), Alto Palermo (in Palermo aerea).
In Recoleta you´ll also find the more "serious" international fashion and accessories such as Hermes, Escada, Chanel, etc.

Some must-buys:

-Leather goods: the best is the lamb leather, it´s soft as silk. Be it jackets, shoes, coats: get them all! And prices are unbeatable.

- Fun fashion (embroidered jeans, fun T-shirts): Kosiuko, 47th street

- More elegant fashion: Ayres, Awada

-Jewelry: At Libertad street (downtown), real diamonds for the best price you´ll get.